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Discovered early in 1915 by a 14 year old boy, Coober Pedy is the world's largest opal bearing region and is responsible for about 80% of Australia's opal production. Coober Pedy was originally known as the Stuart Range Opal Field, named after John McDouall Stuart, who in 1858 was the first European explorer in the area narrowly missed the opal, when he circled the present site of Coober Pedy and named the Range after himself. The name Coober Pedy comes from the Arabana Aboriginal language and when the words "kupa piti" are loosely translated means "white man in a hole". The name was selected by a newly-formed Progress Committee on the 26th of June, 1920 from four proposed names. William Hutchison, the youngest member of an Adelaide gold Prospecting Syndicate discovered Coober Pedy while searching for water. They were traveling in the worst drought experienced in South Australia up to that time and members of the party were forced to go in different directions in search of water while young Willie was left to look after the camp. Disobeying orders, Willie wandered away from camp to search for water around the foothills of a nearby range. There was apprehension when he failed to return by dark. Finally, he strolled into camp with a grin on his face and half a sugar bag of opal on his shoulder. Not only had he found opal, but a fortnight's supply of good water. The full story is told by his father James Hutchison, the leader of the expedition, in the Adelaide Chronicle on the 7th of April 1938. Word of the new find spread quickly. By the middle of the same year, the O'Neill Brothers, Jim and Dick experienced opal miners from White Cliffs, were on the field. They had heard the news while working on the Tarcoola goldfields, about 250 kilometers to the south. Using a compass they had made their own track across country carrying water and supplies in a wagon drawn by four horses. On arrival, they decided not to work where young Hutchison had first found opal and pushed on a little to the west, discovering what was eventually to become know as the Big Flat. They pegged a number of areas and with a few months had produced £17,000 ($34,000) worth of opal. It was the first parcel of Coober Pedy opal to be sold, an incredible amount at that time. Because of its remoteness, only a handful of miners worked the field for the first years, with no buyers visiting before 1920. The first rush took place after the war in 1919, swelling the population to nearly 500. During this period, massive amounts of opal were produced, which eventually caused a slump in the market. Except for copper, the value of opal out stripped all other minerals in the state. The harsh environment never made for easy living, the lack of water was always a great problem and it often had to be recycled many times before being discarded. The situation was critical until 1924, when the government built the great 2,000,000 liter circular tank that partly solved the problem. Water was then rationed at 110 liters per person per week. Today Coober Pedy has a new water supply from a bore that is about 25 kilometers out of town, then pumped through an underground pipeline to the water works where it is processed by reverse osmosis (desalination plant) and pumped through a reticulated town water supply system and of course that makes it very expensive water. Coober Pedy virtually came to a standstill during the Great Depression of the 1930s when the average price of opal fell to 1/- (10¢) a half a kilo, forcing many miners from the field. The discovery of the Eight Mile Field in late 1945 by Toddy Bryant, an Aboriginal woman, caused a sensation, she discovered opal within nine inches of the surface. Toddy and her white husband, Charlie, sold five small parcels to Ernie Sherman's field agent, Jack Kemp, before word leaked out. Because of the opal's superior quality they had tried to keep it quiet, but as soon as Toddy and Charlie hit their first big parch in late January, 1946, the secret was out. The first Eight Mile rush was on within days, both Ernie and Greg Sherman arrived, purchasing their opal for £2000 ($4000). With the discovery of the Boomerang Shallows, the Eight Mile proved to be an exceptional field, producing magnificent opal extending over several claims. In 1956 the field was spread up the hill when Bert Wilson and Frank Terhridge found the "Olympic Australis", which they sold to Greg Sherman. The discovery of the Eight Mile by Toddy Bryant finally established the future of Coober Pedy. As a result of the first world war, it was hard to find a market for the opal and most miners were left with much opal but no money. Needless to say that most left and the field was almost deserted by the end of the war, with the return of peace, selling opal improved and the field attracted once again many miners and buyers. The town and its miners had to put up with many problems, for most the heat and isolation were only small compared with the lack of water, cave-ins, explosions which went wrong and visits from the tax man. During the 1960’s, the mining industry expanded rapidly due to the many European Migrants who came to seek their fortunes. The 60’s and 70’s saw opal mining develop into a multi-million dollar industry with Coober Pedy developing into the modern mining town you see today although it still has that wild west flavor about it. |
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Coober Pedy today is a thriving town of about 3,500 people. (just rang the council to confirm this) It is situated on the Stuart Highway, approximately 846 kilometers (529 miles) north of Adelaide and 685 kilometers (428 miles) south of Alice Springs, the Stuart Highway goes all the way up to Darwin some 1,500 kilometers (938 miles) from here. We benefit from hundreds of tourist's and coaches that pass through here every year. Travelers are well catered for in the town, ranging from a five-star hotel accommodation to backpackers hostels, some underground. There are many opal field tours, including one to the beautiful Painted Desert. For that lovely opal you have always wanted there are about 23 shops (at the time of writing) here at the moment from which to choose your opal from. A trip to our town of Coober Pedy will be a memorable experience, one that you will more than likely want to repeat more than once. There are some roadside parking areas and re-fuelling stops along the way, which makes for a comfortable yet lengthy drive through the Outback of South Australia and the Northern Territory, although they are nothing like or as komphy as they are in the USA, which I must say are Spectacular. About 50% of the population here in Coober Pedy live underground in what are called Dugouts, homes that are made from tunneling into the side of the few hills or ridges that are here and creating as many rooms as they need, some have tunneled into the sides of bulldozer cuts and made dugouts that way. Coober Pedy is a cosmopolitan town with a floating population, it, with the Mintabie opal fields near Marla, further north, produce 90% of the worlds opal. Over 30 fields dot the area extending from 30km north of town (The Shellpatch) to The Craters, 10km. south-east, and "Rose's Folly" 15kms west. There are piles of used rubble everywhere from the shafts sunk deep into the limestone and bulldog shale rock, many of the dugouts begun as mines, these comfortable homes develop as the mine gets larger and larger. Fully furnished and decorated they are an ideal way of living in the hot climate of the desert, and the natural insulation keeps temperatures constant as I said early only up or down by 3% all year. Many are lit by cutting holes out through individual channels, and concreting glass panels into the holes, some dug-outs in the past have sold for hundreds of thousands of dollars. Some of these Dugouts are really quite beautiful and large on the inside, some of them still find a bit opal now and again as this is how the Dugouts got started, by mining for opal into the side of the hills and Dozer cuts, finding that the temperature was very cool in the Summer & warm in the Winter, as the temperature remains very stable, it made for good living, I personally lived in a dugout for 2 1/2 years and the temp varied between 23C & 26C degrees centigrade all the year round, there are air shafts drilled into some of the rooms from above to provide the air flow that is required for comfortable living underground. It is not allowed for mining to be done within the town area of Coober Pedy, but the people who own Dugout's can apply to the Council for a permit to make a extension (extra room) to their Dugout, which is one way to do a bit of mining within there own Home. |
| ACCESSIBILITY |
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Location: Coober Pedy is situated 685kms south of Alice Springs and 846kms North of Adelaide.
Alice Springs to Coober Pedy,
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Greyhound Pioneer Bus, trackin along the Highway. For those wishing to travel by coach, Greyhound Pioneer offers a daily service north and south of the town with McCafferty’s Express Coaches (they own Greyhound Pioneer) offering a similar service yet less frequent service. |
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Greyhound Pioneer Australia - Daily
McCafferty's Service is less frequent Ph: 13 20 30 Adelaide to Coober Pedy 7 days a week Departs: Adelaide: 7.00 pm Arrives: Coober Pedy: 6.00 am Coober Pedy to Adelaide 7 days a week Departs: Coober Pedy: 7.25 pm Arrives: Adelaide: 6.15 am Monday, Wednesday, Friday Departs: Coober Pedy: 2:20am Arrives: Adelaide: 12:55pm |
Alice Springs to Coober Pedy
7 days a week Departs: Alice Springs: 10.30 am Arrives: Coober Pedy:6.45 pm Coober Pedy to Alice Springs 7 days a week Departs: Coober Pedy: 6:35am Arrives: Alice Springs: 2.30 pm Alice Springs to Coober Pedy 3 days a week Departs: Alice Springs: 5:30pm Arrives: Coober Pedy: 2:05am every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday Departs: Coober Pedy: 2:50am Arrives: Alice Springs: 11: 15am |
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BY CHOO CHOO TRAIN
For the rail enthusiast the famous “Ghan” offers an alternative mode of transport and runs the return Adelaide to Alice Springs service either once or twice weekly dependent upon the time of year. The Ghan will drop off and pick up passengers however, Transport arrangements to and from Manguri Station 47 kilometers west of Coober Pedy prior to departure from Adelaide or Alice Springs must be made for travel to and from the railway line. The Ghan departs Adelaide on Mondays & Thursdays and arrives at Manguri Station on Tuesdays & Fridays. For further information please contact Great Southern Railways on Ph: 13 21 47 or for travel timetables and fares it is suggested that you contact your nearest travel agent for assistance. If you got here by plane or train you are going to need some wheels Car Self Drive Coober Pedy can be accessed by road via the Stuart Highway traveling south from Alice Springs and north from Adelaide. Car Rental
Thrifty Car Rental
Coober Pedy Rent-a-Car
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| TRIVIA |
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Willie Hutchison did not live long enough to see the fruits of his find, he drowned five years later while driving cattle from Clifton Hills, on the Birdsville Track, across the Georgina River. In 1922 an attempt was made to solve the scarcity of water by building a two million liter water tank, unfortunately there was not enough rain until 1925 to enable the tank to be filled. Living conditions improved rapidly and by the mid 1920s the field had two stores, a post office, firewood was available for $2 per dray load, and a Miners Right could be obtained for fifty cents per year giving the right to peg out an area of fifty meters by fifty meters. Opal has been recognized by the Australian Federal Government as the National Gemstone of Australia. Coober Pedy opal fields cover an area of 4,954 square kilometers in which there are approximately 48 individual fields and we have only used or are mining on about 5% of that. Some interesting observations have been made about the miners and townies who settled there after the second world war. Most were New Australians, predominantly from Southern Europe with little formal education and a poor command of English. There are still more than forty different nationalities working the field today. For them and later arrivals, independence was most important, freedom from government control, no paper work and most certainly no bookkeeping, but that is starting to change a bit now. Most work when they feel like it and few keep regular hours. They prefer their cash economy, hate taxes, licenses and rates. Few legal contracts are made between the miners and opal buyers, their word or handshake is good enough. Maximum profit is not important and many see life, and mining as a gamble and therefore use a large part of their income for gambling and drinking. Most of them have a strong dislike, or at best a feeling of uneasiness, of white collar workers such as public servants, police, teachers, mines department officials and the like. This can also be seen from the low census returns, low voting turn out for elections, high tax avoidance and the slow or non-payment of government debts. Coober Pedy is world famous for its underground homes, underground churches and other underground and above ground tourist attractions. Approximately 50% of the population live in underground homes called dugouts. The new Stuart Highway from Port Augusta to the Northern Territory border was completed in March 1987, before that it was just dirt road full of corrugation that would try to shake your vehicle to pieces. The Highway is named after early explorer John McDouall Stuart who traveled and explored around the area in the late 1850’s. The Opal Festival is held each Easter with a parade through the main street and each July sees the Greek Glendi Festival and the long weekend in October there is a Gymkhana and horse-racing. Movies such as Fire in the Stone, Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Ground Zero, Until the End of the World, Stark and more recently Pitch Black, Siam Sunset and the last one Down & Under, which my blower is in one of the scenes involving the motor cross bikes and the 4 wheel drive on a slope with the main actor, all these have been filmed in and around the Coober Pedy and Breakaways area. Colin Thiele in his novel The Fire in the Stone seemed to get to the essence of the town when he wrote: The opal fields lay six hundred miles northwest of Adelaide, midway between Port Augusta and Alice Springs. A flat, bare landscape it was for the most part, with undulations here and there and flat-topped hills and breakaways and wind-swept plains. An old land, eroded and wrinkled, worn down over endless ages, peneplain on peneplain, until even the hills were remnants of ancient plains. And in the sides of the slopes, cut into every knoll and knob, were doorways and entrances and burrows as if the whole place was inhabited by five foot high rabbits walking about on their hind legs. We are about 213 meters above sea level and have an average annual rainfall is minimal of around 124 mm (5 inches) per annum and can fall at any time during the year. Seasonal Considerations
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| PLACES OF INTEREST |
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Natural Breakaways
Moon Plain
Man-made Desert Cave
Fayes Underground Home John McDouall Stuart Memorial: Near the Stuart Highway. Digger's Dream Underground Home The Underground Art Gallery Crocodile Harry's Underground Nest The highlights include a visit to the underground house of the man calling himself Crocodile Harry. This wonderful old lecher (his walls are festooned with the addresses of girls who he claims to have seduced) declares himself to be Arvid Von Blumentals, a Latvian Baron who was forced to leave his country after World War II. He claims to have worked as a crocodile hunter in Northern Australia before coming to Coober Pedy to fossick for opals in about 1975. Although his story seems implausible - a good piece of bush mythology - it is interesting to note that Roger Jose, the Hermit of Borroloola, who lived in a damaged 1000 gallon tank at Borroloola on the Gulf of Carpentaria in the Northern Territory until his death in 1963, reportedly sold his unusual accommodation to a crocodile hunter named Harry Blumental. Are these two one and the same person? And are all of Harry's
larger than life stories true? A crazy place where its creator has developed his dug-out with sculpture
and paintings. A typical example is a painting on the wall called "Irish Stew".
It is in fact a Irish stew which he burned one night, placed on a board and lacquered.
Turn the wine cork in the navel of a pillar shaped like a woman and a tune plays.
The Dog Fence Underground Potteries Coober Pedy Opal Fields Golf Course The Big Winch Old Timers Mine
Serbian Orthodox Church The Catacomb Church Saint Peter & Paul's Catholic Church |
| TOURS |
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Desert Cave Tours: Ph: (08) 8672 688
Oasis Tours: Ph: (08) 8672 5169
Martins Star Gazing Tour: Ph: (08) 8672 5223
Radekas Desert Breakaway's Tour: Ph: (08) 8672 5223
Stuart Range Tours: Ph: (08) 8672 5179
Riba's Mine Tour: Ph: (08) 8672 5614
Mail Run Tour: Ph: (08) 8672 5558
Explore the Outback Camel Safaris: Ph: 1800 064 244
Evelyn Downs Station Tours: Ph: (08) 8670 7991
Opal Cave Tag-Along Tours: Ph: (08) 8672 5028
(Optional flight over Lake Eyre available)
Upon leaving here, the red sand hill countryside will break into the small town of William Creek, where morning tea is provided. Next stop will be Lake Eyre, which will follow onto Belt Bay and stopping at Halligan Bay for lunch and a leisurely stroll along the lake edges. By now its to start heading back to William Creek for afternoon tea ... Then return back to Coober Pedy. |
| HOTELS & MOTELS |
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Desert Cave Hotel
Desert View Motel (Best Western)
The Underground Motel
Opal Inn Hotel/Motel
Experience Motel (Flag Inn)
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Mud Hut Motel
Lookout Cave
Bed and Breakfast's Anne's Dugout Bed & Breakfast:
Gibber Plain Bed & Breakfast:
Fred & Wilma's Bed & Breakfast (Opal Cave)
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| BACKPACKERS & COACH ACCOMMODATION |
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Radekas Downunder Motel & Backpackers
Bedrock Backpackers
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Joe's Backpackers
Umoona Opal Mine & Museum
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| CARAVAN PARKS |
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Opal Inn Caravan Park (Top Tourist parks)
Stuart Range Caravan Park
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Oasis Caravan Park
Riba's Caravan Park and Camping Ground
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